I am having an idea for a bag and I believe I have seen this technique somewhere before. I just have no idea what it’s called and hence have a hard time finding a video or instructions.
Essentially I want a round corner the comes out a bit and then the gusset over the two sides. I believe I have seen an approach where you cut a side piece with rounded corners and then cut perpendicular into the middle of the corner. Then sew that cut and turn over. The corner sticks out essentially and the side is then attached to a long piece that runs from one side around as bottom and up on the other side.
I am not sure if I am explaining this well enough to ID. I will try to find a pic.
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Are you talking about the perpendicular stitching that’s at the center of the radius on the rounded corner?
Yes exactly!
Here is another pic. I want the seam on the inside, invisible.
That’s called a dart. There’s seam on the inside too. If you want it invisible you have to form the shape into it.
Thanks I’ll look for “dart”. That makes actually sense. Not sure why I didn’t come up with it.
There’s a whole language built around the fibre arts. You don’t need to invent your own. I’ve found a large amount of seamsmiths on Instagram, it may be worth your while to browse around there.
Thanks
A bit late to the party and maybe you’ve already come across this in your search. But i figured just to add to the conversation, here’s an article about how to sew a dart (more in the non leather sense. Apparently there’s some a real skill to it, but I’m sure with some practice, you can nail it.
You won’t be able to do any of this in leather–except for the very lightest weight leathers for fashion garments–due to the thickness of the material. The darts shown in the image appear to be cut, and sewn to a piece that is behind them. You wouldn’t do that in fabric because you’d have raw edges of fabric showing, and it would ravel. That’s not an issue with leather.
Leather apparel doesn’t typically use darts; it’s more common to see the shaping built into the pattern pieces.
Yeah I find it hard to translate from fabric sewing to leather. It’s a different craft really unless you work with very soft and thin leather maybe.
I have seen pics or a video a while ago of corners done on leather that I have posted about. I just can’t find them anymore. I really have two questions: 1) do I just cut a slit or do I have to remove a “slice” there 2) how deep do I cut.
I think I’ll have to play around with some scraps to figure out the right approach. The ones I saw had the cut stitched back together, turned and then the edge of the whole side was sewn to a strip of leather. Then the leather strip was sewn to the gusset (side and bottom of bag).
You should play around with paper and try to make what you mean. If you cut a square of out of the corner you’ll end up with a 90° box. If you cut out a diamond you’ll have a shallow candy dish. Gentle curves are hard with darts so you can create that shape with a panel instead.
Always smart to do paper or card board first you are right. I am not sure if I understand your last sentence. A panel instead of a dart? How does that work?
You’ll have to remove a slice; if you just cut a slit, you’ll have to overlap them, and you won’t have enough seam allowance to connect them once you start getting to the point of the slit. If you cut a piece out, and have a backing piece of leather, you’ll be able to sew all the way around.
This kind of stitching would be easiest on a post-bed roller foot machine. It’s going to be a real challenge with a flat bad machine. Otherwise, I’d use contact cement to hold the backer on temporarily (or even just rubber cement), and then stitch by hand.
I only hand sew
